Division & Special Zones
After the Turkish invasion of 1974, Cyprus remains a divided island. This is not abstract politics — it is a reality you will encounter: checkpoints, the buffer zone, British bases.
Zones of control
| Zone | Share of the island | Who controls it |
|---|---|---|
| Government-controlled areas | ~57.4% | Legitimate government of the Republic of Cyprus |
| Occupied zone | 36.2% | Turkey / “TRNC” |
| Buffer zone | ~3.7% (346 km²) | UN (UNFICYP) |
| British bases | ~2.7% (254 km²) | United Kingdom |
Shares are of the whole island (9 251 km²) and add up to 100%. 36.2% and 2.7% are the Cyprus government's own figures (PIO, Cyprus at a Glance); the buffer zone is 346 km² of 9 251 km²; the government-controlled share is what remains. Exam papers also round the occupied share to “about 37%”.
❓ What percentage of the territory of Cyprus is occupied?
→ 36.2%
❓ Entry into which area of Cyprus is considered illegal?
→ Entry via the ports and airports of the occupied territory (see below)
Occupied territories
Invasion: 20 July 1974
Self‑proclaimed state: “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus” (ΤΔΒΚ / “TRSK”, Turétskaya Respublika Sévernogo Kípra) — declared in 1983
Recognition: Only Turkey. The rest of the world regards this as an illegal occupation.
What this means in practice
- No international flights to the north (only via Turkey)
- No embassies of other countries
- Economic isolation
- EU law does not apply
❓ Which countries recognize the “TRNC”?
→ Only Turkey
Legal and illegal entry
✅ LEGAL: Entry via the Republic of Cyprus
Fly into the airports:
- Larnaca (LCA)
- Paphos (PFO)
After that you can cross the dividing line via official checkpoints.
❌ ILLEGAL: Direct entry to the north
You may not enter Cyprus via:
- Ercan Airport on the north
- The ports of Famagusta or Kyrenia
Why: From the point of view of the Republic of Cyprus, this is illegal entry into its territory. You may face problems:
- Fine or future entry ban
- Legal complications with property
- Problems when applying for citizenship
❓ Entry into which area is considered illegal?
→ Entry via ports/airports of the occupied territory (the north)
⚠️ Important: Visiting the north via checkpoints after legal entry to the south is permitted.
The Green Line
The buffer zone that divides the island from west to east — 180 km.
Why “green”? In 1963 a British general drew the dividing line with a green pencil on a map of Nicosia.
Who guards it: UN peacekeepers — UNFICYP (United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus). On the island since 1964.
Width: From a few metres (in central Nicosia) to several kilometres (in rural areas).
Inside the buffer zone
| Fact | Detail |
|---|---|
| Its limits | The ceasefire lines of 16 August 1974 (18:00), as recorded by UNFICYP |
| West → east | Western part: Kato Pyrgos to Mammari · Eastern part: Dali to Paralimni |
| People | Villages and Civil Use Areas where more than 10,000 people live or work; elsewhere UNFICYP permission is needed |
| Pyla (Πύλα) | Larnaca district — the only village where Greek and Turkish Cypriots live side by side |
| Nicosia International Airport | A UN Protected Area inside the buffer zone since 1974; closed to civilian flights. Before 1974 it was the island's only international airport |
Checkpoints (crossing points)
Since 2003 the line can be crossed via official checkpoints. A passport or ID is required.
All 9 operating checkpoints
| Checkpoint | Greek | District | Where | Type |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ledra Street | Οδός Λήδρας | Nicosia | Centre of the old town; opened 3 April 2008 | Pedestrians only |
| Ledra Palace | Λήδρα Πάλας | Nicosia | Nicosia, by the old town | Pedestrians (+ diplomats) |
| Agios Dometios (Metehan) | Άγιος Δομέτιος | Nicosia | Nicosia's main vehicle crossing | Vehicle |
| Astromeritis–Zodeia | Αστρομερίτης – Ζώδεια | Nicosia | West of Nicosia, Morphou road | Vehicle |
| Kato Pyrgos–Limnitis | Κάτω Πύργος – Λιμνίτης | Nicosia (not Paphos) | Westernmost, Tillyria | Vehicle |
| Lefka–Aplici | Λεύκα – Απλίκι | Nicosia | West; opened 12 Nov 2018 | Vehicle |
| Deryneia | Δερύνεια | Famagusta | East, facing Varosha; opened 12 Nov 2018 | Vehicle |
| Pergamos | Πέργαμος | Larnaca | Inside the British base of Dhekelia | Vehicle |
| Strovilia | Στροβίλια | — | Inside the British base of Dhekelia, near Famagusta | Vehicle |
Count: 9 — 6 in Nicosia district, 1 in Famagusta district, 2 inside the Dhekelia base (Pergamos, Strovilia; source: UNFICYP). Dates: first openings April 2003 → Ledra Street 2008 → Deryneia and Lefka–Aplici on the same day, 12 Nov 2018. None has opened since.
⚠️ The EU Green Line Regulation lists routes via Kokkina (Kato Pyrgos–Kokkina, Kokkina–Pachyammos) — these are not operating crossings. It does not list Pergamos and Strovilia (they are in British base territory).
⚠️ Proposed but not open (talks deadlocked, 2026): Mia Milia, Louroujina, Athienou, Aglantzia — not crossing points.
What is checked:
- Passport or ID card
- They may ask your purpose of visit
- Car insurance (a separate one is needed for the north)
💡 Tip: Ledra Street is the most convenient for tourists. You simply walk across through the centre of Nicosia.
British Sovereign Base Areas (SBA)
These are territory of the United Kingdom — not part of the Republic of Cyprus and not part of the EU.
| Base | Greek | Where | District | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Akrotiri (Western SBA) | Βάση Ακρωτηρίου | South, near Limassol | Limassol | ~123 km² |
| Dhekelia (Eastern SBA) | Βάση Δεκέλειας | South‑east, between Larnaca and Ayia Napa | Larnaca and Famagusta | ~131 km² (the larger one) |
Together about 3% of the land of Cyprus. SBA headquarters: Episkopi (Limassol district) — not Akrotiri village, and not the Episkopi in Paphos district.
Why are they here? Under the 1960 Treaty of Establishment of the independence of Cyprus, Britain retained these territories.
Villages in and around the bases
The base boundaries were drawn in 1960 to take in the military installations and leave out villages and towns — so some Republic villages are surrounded by base land.
| Place | Greek | District | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ormideia | Ορμήδεια | Larnaca | Republic enclave inside Dhekelia |
| Xylotymvou | Ξυλοτύμβου | Larnaca | Republic enclave inside Dhekelia |
| Dhekelia power station | Ηλεκτροπαραγωγός σταθμός Δεκέλειας | Larnaca | Republic enclave inside Dhekelia |
| Xylofagou | Ξυλοφάγου | Larnaca | Partly on base land — not an enclave |
| Pyla | Πύλα | Larnaca | In the UN buffer zone (see below) |
| Akrotiri (village) | Ακρωτήρι | Limassol | In the Akrotiri base area; gives the base its name |
| Avdimou, Paramali, Sotira | Αυδήμου, Παραμάλι, Σωτήρα | Limassol | Overlap the Akrotiri base |
| Kolossi Castle | Κάστρο Κολοσσίου | Limassol | Next to the Akrotiri base but on Republic territory |
The three Republic enclaves in Dhekelia — Ormideia, Xylotymvou, Dhekelia power station — are a closed list.
In the east the buffer zone is interrupted by the Dhekelia base, where the UN does not operate.
📍 In the exam: Which of these villages is Republic territory surrounded by the Dhekelia base: Ormideia, Pyla, Kolossi, Akrotiri?
Answer: Ormideia.
What is there:
- RAF military bases (Royal Air Force)
- Radars and listening stations
- Residential areas for servicemen and their families
On Mount Olympos (Troodos) there is a British radar station.
❓ What are the names of the two British bases in Cyprus?
→ Akrotiri and Dhekelia
🚨 RAF Akrotiri drone strike (1 March 2026)
On 1 March 2026, 22:03 UTC a Shahed-type kamikaze drone (of Iranian manufacture, launched from Lebanese territory) struck a hangar at the British Royal Air Force base at Akrotiri — the first strike on a British sovereign base in Cyprus since 1986.
- Minimal damage, no casualties; a partial evacuation of the base was carried out
- Cypriot Foreign Minister Constantinos Kombos officially confirmed the Iranian origin
- Greek Air Force F-16s intercepted two further drones over Lebanese airspace on 4 March
- In the following days, Greece, the UK, France (Charles de Gaulle carrier strike group), Italy, the Netherlands and Spain sent frigates, helicopters and anti-drone systems to defend Cyprus
- The Republic of Cyprus stressed that it is not involved in any military operation in the region
❓ What happened on 1 March 2026 at the British base of Akrotiri? → An Iranian Shahed drone strike, launched from Lebanon (first strike on a British sovereign base in Cyprus since 1986)
Special places
Village of Pyla (Πύλα, Píla)
The only place in the buffer zone where Greeks and Turks live together. Located in the Larnaca district.
There is both a Greek church and a mosque here, as well as coffee houses of both communities. Patrolled by the UN.
Varosha (Βαρώσια / Varosha)
A district of Famagusta — a ghost town since 1974. Residents fled, thinking they would return in a few days. They have not returned to this day.
Until 1974 it was a popular resort visited by celebrities. Now it is abandoned hotels behind barbed wire.
Karpas Peninsula (Καρπασία, Karpasía)
The “finger” in the north‑east of the island. Fully occupied.
There is the Monastery of Apostle Andrew — an important place of pilgrimage. Greek Cypriots can visit it via checkpoints.
❓ Where is the Monastery of Apostle Andrew located?
→ On the Karpas Peninsula (occupied territory)
Occupied municipalities by district (9)
Official list of the Republic (May 2026):
| District | Occupied municipalities | Count |
|---|---|---|
| Nicosia | Kythrea (Κυθρέα), Morphou (Μόρφου) | 2 |
| Kyrenia | Kyrenia (Κερύνεια), Karavas (Καραβάς), Lapithos (Λάπηθος) | 3 |
| Famagusta | Famagusta (Αμμόχωστος), Akanthou (Ακανθού), Lefkoniko (Λευκόνοικο), Lysi (Λύση) | 4 |
Traps:
- Akanthou lies on the north coast, but belongs to Famagusta district.
- Morphou is Nicosia district, not Kyrenia.
📍 In the exam: The occupied municipality of Akanthou belongs to the district of …
Answer: Famagusta.
Free municipalities after the 2024 reform (20)
The 2024 local-government reform merged many municipalities. Old names often survive as quarters.
| District | Municipalities (Greek) | Now includes, e.g. |
|---|---|---|
| Nicosia (5) | Nicosia (Λευκωσία) · Lakatamia (Λακατάμεια) · Strovolos (Στρόβολος) · Latsia–Geri (Λακκιά (Λατσιά)-Γέρι) · South Nicosia–Idalion (Νότια Λευκωσία-Ιδάλιον (Δάλι)) | Nicosia: Agios Dometios, Egkomi, Aglantzia · Lakatamia: Tseri |
| Limassol (4) | Limassol (Λεμεσός) · Amathous (Αμαθούς) · Polemidia (Πολεμίδια) · Kourion (Κούριον) | Amathous: Agios Athanasios (seat), Germasogeia · Kourion: Ypsonas (seat), Episkopi, Kolossi |
| Larnaca (5) | Larnaca (Λάρνακα) · Aradippou (Αραδίππου) · Dromolaxia–Meneou (Δρομολαξιά-Μενεού) · Lefkara (Λεύκαρα) · Athienou (Αθηένου) | Athienou is next to the buffer zone but free |
| Paphos (4) | Paphos (Πάφος) · Ierokipia (Ιεροκηπία) · Akamas (Ακάμας) · Polis Chrysochous (Πόλη Χρυσοχούς) | Ierokipia: Geroskipou (seat) · Akamas: Pegeia (seat) |
| Famagusta, free (2) | Ayia Napa (Αγία Νάπα) · Paralimni–Deryneia (Παραλίμνι-Δερύνεια) | Ayia Napa: Sotira, Avgorou, Achna, Liopetri · Paralimni–Deryneia: Frenaros, Acheritou |
📍 In the exam: After the 2024 reform, which municipality does Agios Athanasios belong to?
Answer: Amathous. (Older exam papers may still call Agios Athanasios a municipality.)
Well-known occupied villages
| District | Village | Greek | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kyrenia | Bellapais | Μπέλαπαϊς | Gothic abbey above Kyrenia |
| Kyrenia | Karmi | Κάρμι | Hillside village |
| Kyrenia | Kazafani | Καζάφανι | East of Kyrenia town |
| Kyrenia | Agios Epiktitos | Άγιος Επίκτητος | Kyrenia coast |
| Kyrenia | Kormakitis | Κορμακίτης | Maronite village, west end of Pentadaktylos |
| Kyrenia | Vasileia | Βασίλεια | West Kyrenia coast |
| Famagusta | Rizokarpaso | Ριζοκάρπασο | Largest village of the Karpasia peninsula |
| Famagusta | Aigialousa (Gialousa) | Αιγιαλούσα | Karpasia; official name is Αιγιαλούσα |
| Famagusta | Agios Andronikos | Άγιος Ανδρόνικος (Καρπασίας) | Karpasia |
| Famagusta | Leonarisso | Λεονάρισσο | Gateway to Karpasia |
| Famagusta | Trikomo | Τρίκωμο | Birthplace of Grivas |
| Famagusta | Engomi (Famagusta) | Έγκωμη (Αμμοχώστου) | Bronze Age site. Engomi of Nicosia is free |
| Famagusta | Kontea | Κοντέα | Mesaoria village |
| Nicosia | Mia Milia | Μια Μηλιά | Occupied villages exist in Nicosia district too |
| Nicosia | Kokkina | Κόκκινα | Occupied pocket on the Tillyria coast, surrounded by the free area — Nicosia district, not Paphos |
Enclaved communities (εγκλωβισμένοι)
People who stayed in their villages in the occupied area after 1974. Fewer than 400 Greek Cypriots and Maronites remain, out of 20,000 at the end of August 1974.
| Village | Greek | District | Who lives there |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rizokarpaso | Ριζοκάρπασο | Famagusta (Karpasia) | Enclaved Greek Cypriots; Greek Cypriot primary and secondary schools |
| Kormakitis | Κορμακίτης | Kyrenia | Maronites; Maronite school |
| Asomatos | Ασώματος | Kyrenia | Maronites |
| Karpaseia | Καρπάσεια | Kyrenia | Maronites |
| Agia Marina Skyllouras | Αγία Μαρίνα Σκυλλούρας | Nicosia | Maronites |
The four Maronite villages: Kormakitis, Asomatos, Karpaseia (Kyrenia) and Agia Marina Skyllouras (the only one in Nicosia district).
❌ Karpaseia (Maronite village, Kyrenia) ≠ Karpasia (the peninsula, Famagusta). Asomatos of Kyrenia ≠ Asomatos of Limassol (a free village).
📍 In the exam: Where do enclaved Greek Cypriots still have their own schools?
Answer: Rizokarpaso.
"Free Famagusta", Achna and Deryneia
| Term / place | What it means |
|---|---|
| Free Famagusta (Ελεύθερη Αμμόχωστος) | Official name for the free (government-controlled) part of Famagusta district: municipalities of Ayia Napa and Paralimni–Deryneia. Not Varosha — Varosha is the sealed quarter of occupied Famagusta town |
| Achna (Άχνα) | The original village has been in the occupied / buffer area since August 1974. The community lives on at Dasaki Achnas (Δασάκι Άχνας), in the free area. Officially "partly occupied"; now a quarter of Ayia Napa municipality. Achna dam is in the free area |
| Deryneia (Δερύνεια) | Free village facing occupied Varosha. Part of its land lies beyond the line, so officially "partly occupied" |
| Larnaca district | Also counts as "partly occupied" (e.g. Pergamos, Troulloi) |
📍 In the exam: Which village of Famagusta district has been occupied since 1974, while its residents now live at Dasaki?
Answer: Achna.
Key points to remember
| Fact | Answer |
|---|---|
| Percentage of occupation | 36.2% |
| Who recognizes the “TRNC” | Only Turkey |
| UN peacekeepers | UNFICYP (since 1964) |
| British bases | Akrotiri and Dhekelia |
| Illegal entry | Via ports/airports of the north |
| Legal entry to the north | Via checkpoints after flying to the south |
| Pedestrian checkpoint in Nicosia | Ledra Street |
| Village of the two communities | Pyla |
| Ghost town | Varosha |
| Occupied municipalities | 9: Nicosia 2, Kyrenia 3, Famagusta 4 |
| Akanthou — district | Famagusta |
| Morphou, Kythrea — district | Nicosia |
| Agios Athanasios, Germasogeia (since 2024) | Amathous municipality |
| Athienou, Aradippou, Lakatamia | Free municipalities |
| Free Famagusta | Ayia Napa + Paralimni–Deryneia |
| Achna | Occupied since 1974; community at Dasaki Achnas |
| Rizokarpaso, Aigialousa | Karpasia (Famagusta, occupied) |
| Crossing points | 9; 2 inside Dhekelia (Pergamos, Strovilia); newest Deryneia + Lefka–Aplici (2018) |
| Kato Pyrgos–Limnitis, Kokkina — district | Nicosia |
| SBA headquarters | Episkopi (Limassol district) |
| Republic enclaves inside Dhekelia | Ormideia, Xylotymvou, Dhekelia power station |
| Kolossi Castle | Republic territory, next to the Akrotiri base |
| Maronite villages | Kormakitis, Asomatos, Karpaseia (Kyrenia), Agia Marina Skyllouras (Nicosia) |
| Enclaved persons today | Fewer than 400 |